The Magic of the Moment on a Glory Night

We come to Germany mostly to spend time with our family and eat pretzels. But this year, our first two weeks in Europe have been “surprisingly eventful”. By that I mean full of events that we didn’t really plan before we started this trip: 

Who would have thought that a Swiss town would organize a huge spectacle for our arrival? Or that one of the biggest rock bands will ever come to play in my little hometown? Or that the Swiss and the German Ultimate Frisbee championships would be held so close together that I could watch both my nieces play on the same day? Or that my favorite German singer would host an evening honoring my least favorite performer…let me take you to a few magical moments on some glorious nights:

The little town of Einsiedeln in Switzerland is known for the impressive historical Einsiedeln Abbey. Every few years since 1924 the abbey is used as a spectacular backdrop for a big theatrical production, where the whole town participates. It was scheduled for the summer of 2020, but was postponed shortly before the opening, probably because they heard that we weren’t coming. So they moved it to 2024 to coincide with our arrival and just maybe also to avoid the pandemic. As an extra bonus, this made it 100 years after the first performance and my brother has an impressive talent to find centennial events for us.

"The Great World Theatre" in front of the Einsiedln Abbey

They always perform the same grandiose play that is appropriately called “The Great World Theatre” (“Welttheater”). The original version was written 400 years ago by a guy called Calderon. We had never heard of him, but apparently he was the Steven Spielberg of the 1600’s in Europe. The performance included over 500 performers and was a very spectacular spectacle about nothing less than good & evil, god & the world and the meaning of life.

We made it to Germany in time for my dad’s birthday. The next day was historic for our family: My dad and I got to watch both my nieces play in two different national ultimate frisbee championships: Linnea played in Freiburg in the German mixed division, Ronja in Basel in the Swiss women’s division. And to top it all off, Germany played its first game in the knock out phase of the Euro 2024 soccer championship, which of course is an omnipresent event in Europe.

Ronja back in action
at the Swiss Ultimate Championships

We have driven past the golf courses around Sandra's hometown many times. But golf was a very elitist sport when we grew up. I didn't even know anyone who played golf and never thought about playing until I came to America. Things have changed and we finally were able to play a round at the local course with Sandra's cousin.

They finally let the riff-raff into the local golf club

BAP was my and Sandra’s favorite German band when we grew up. Their founder and singer Wolfgang Niedecken currently tours with a very unique show: He performs songs from his artistic inspiration, Bob Dylan. He sings his own and Dylan songs in English and German, but mostly in Kölsch (Explanation for American readers: Kölsch is not just a beer, but also the dialect from Cologne). He also reads excerpts from his book about his trip through the United States following in the footsteps of Bob Dylan. 

I have very mixed feelings about Bob Dylan. I admire his creative genius, but he is also the worst performer or entertainer I have ever seen. His show on Maui a few years ago was just terrible. He never once said ‘hello’ or ‘thank you’ and managed to make even iconic songs like ‘Blowing in the Wind’ or ‘Tangled Up in Blue’ unrecognizable. In fact it was even hard to recognize when a song started or ended, because it all sounded the same. The event was traumatic enough that Sandra did not even want to hear her childhood hero sing, if he was singing Bob Dylan songs. So I convinced my parents to join me.

Wolfgang Niedecken sings Bob Dylan songs
way better than Bob Dylan

I, and even my parents, loved the evening. The Dylan songs sounded much better than when Bob Dylan sang them and they were clearly recognizable even in Kölsch. I liked the very talented keyboarder who accompanied Niedecken better than the whole band Bob Dylan brought to Maui. But my favorite part was when Wolfgang Niedecken described how he took a friend to a Bob Dylan concert to show his friend why he admired this genius musical master. The atmosphere at the concert was great right up until Bob Dylan hit the stage. Niedecken’s description of Dylan’s lame performance was almost word for word the same as my description of Dylan’s uninspiring performance on Maui. Niedecken gave his friend credit for suffering through 45 minutes before disappearing to the beer tent. 

All these evenings had magical moments and could be described as glorious. But the most magical, surprising and surreal event was still to come. I can honestly say that I have never been more stunned than when I read that the Scorpions will come to play in my little hometown. They only perform six shows in Germany on their European tour this year. There are over 1,000 towns in Germany that are larger than Breisach. Actually, the population of my hometown is smaller than the 12,500 people who attended to the concert. 

My cute little hometown Breisach doubled in
population during the Scorpions concert

What made this all even more special for us was that our Maui friends Ovick and Karine joined us (we had never even seen each other outside of Hawaii). Ovick spent his birthday traveling through half of France to spend a weekend with Alice Cooper, our family and the Scorpions. Ovick might or might not be responsible for the world wide success of the Scorpions: He followed them way before they were superstars and brought an album from his cousin in Hannover to the US.

Our Maui friends came to cheer with us
for the Scorpions...and for Germany

The day Ovick and Karine arrived, Germany and France played their quarter finals at the Euro 2024, so we watched the games together. Good thing we had a French guest; that way we had something to cheer that night. France won on penalty kicks against Italy while Germany was kicked out in a very dramatic game by Spain.

The next day was the big event: The first ever “Pinot and Rock” festival in Breisach. I am so proud of my little hometown to pull this off. When I first heard that the Scorpions play in Breisach, I thought it might be a joke or at best an unplugged show since we don’t really have a venue that the Scorpions could play in. But they set up a huge stage on what is usually a campground. I didn’t even know our electric grid was robust enough for that kind of show. The only reminder that we are still countryside: During the concert, they made an announcement for those who might get stuck in the mud on the field that was used as a parking lot: "Don't worry, we'll have tractors standing by to pull you out...".

Happy Birthday, Ovick!

As if the Scorpions in Breisach weren’t special enough, the festival also included Alice Cooper! An Alice Cooper show is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you’re gonna get, but I guess he is always bombastic, shocking, theatrical, loud and awesome. Not sure whether he always gets beheaded on stage, but nothing would surprise me anymore.

The two concerts were over three hours of very entertaining ‘shock and awe’. Alice Cooper more shock and the Scorpions more awe. We were maybe 25 feet away from the stage. Here just a few 'magical moments that made the night particularly glorious':

* The Scorpions changed the lyrics of “Wind of Change”. The song was originally inspired by the end of the cold war. They replaced the lines praising Russia’s new openness with a clear message of solidarity with Ukraine. 

* The line about “the magic of the moment on a glory night” seemed extremely befitting for this event and has been stuck in my head ever since. Hence the title of this post.

* The Scorpions performing “Big City Nights” in my small hometown maybe the biggest irony I have ever experienced in my life!

* Klaus Meine, the founder and singer of the Scorpions seemed to enjoy speaking German for a change. He remembered a trip in their beat up tour bus over 40 years ago to Colmar, just across the French border from Breisach.

* Alice Cooper performing “School’s Out” just a few hundred meters from my high school was 35 years late, but still surreal.

* When Alice Cooper asked for votes in the song “Elected”, I think at least all the Americans in the audience were ready to vote
for him.

Alice Cooper for President!

The Scorpions, live in Breisach

Oh the Irony! "Big City Nights" in my small hometown

Even now, three days later, it still seems unreal that this actually happened. But next year, when Bruce Springsteen and Taylor Swift play together at “Riesling and Rock” in Sandra's hometown Eigeltingen, I hope all our Maui friends will come join us.

Aloha from Breisach,

Chris, Sandra, Alice & Klaus