Thursday, June 28, 2018

Almost hung and blown away in the Wild West - 2nd Update from Chrisandra's Best of Both Worlds Roadtrip

Aloha all,
in the last 10 days, I almost got hung in Cheyenne, Joy (our RV) almost got blown away in a storm, we went horseback riding and visited state capitols, national parks and museums. I’ll tell you: If we keep this pace up, we’ll be either smart or dead at the end of this trip!

It’s not always what happened, but also what didn’t happen that makes history interesting. The Ames Brother Pyramid in Wyoming was built at the highest point of the transcontinental railroad. Clearly, this would be an important location for generations to come. So these brothers bribed congress to establish a town there and built themselves an oversized 60 feet pyramid as memorial. The nearby town of Sherman was thriving, so surely they thought they immortalized themselves on the top of the world. Well, the railroad was relocated a couple of decades later and the town totally disappeared. There are no tracks left, there is not a single structure besides the pyramid, there is not even a paved road to it. Instead of into the history books, the Ames brothers only made it into the “Just Palin weird” section of the “Eccentric America” book, which points out that “their giant size portraits are admired by no one and look out upon nothing”.

We love visiting state capitals. The capitol buildings are pretty much always a treasure trove of information about the history and current affairs of any state. Most states take great pride in making the state capitols very welcoming and informative places to show their state in the best light. Cheyenne, Wyoming is no exception. In fact, they take so much pride in it, that they are currently spending $300 million to restore it inside and out, basically only leaving a construction fence for us to look at. But Cheyenne was still a very worthwhile stop on our trip. We went on a historical trolley tour, visited the Wyoming State Museum and toured the historic Governor’s Mansion. 

I don’t always remember the most important facts from these historical tours. From the Governor’s Mansion tour, I mostly remember what the tour guide pointed out at the gallery of portraits: With one single exception, all the Wyoming Governors - before Gillette invented the safety razor in the early 1900’s - had lots of facial hair. Every single Governor since then has been clean shaven. Coincidence? I think not!

It’s not always good to be dressed appropriately for certain occasions. Cheyenne has a free open air ‘gunslinger’ Wild West show. I was picked as a ‘volunteer’ in the show to show how not to dress for a gunfight. I guess shorts, Tevas and a Hawaii jacket are not considered appropriate attire here. I almost got hung, despite Sandra’s attempts to save me. Somehow they changed their mind at the last second and gave me a really nice cowboy hat instead. I still wear it proudly and very inappropriately with shorts and slippers. Being badly dressed not only got me the free hat, it was also good to be on stage, because from the audience, the amateur actors were really hard to understand. On stage, I got a lot more of their jokes since most of them were literally directed at me. We spent the night in Cheyenne at the Terry Bison Ranch. Ironically, the highlight there were not bison, but dromedary. 

Most of the next day we spent at Fort Laramie, which is described as “the most important place in the westward expansion of the United States". For better or worse, without Fort Laramie, first the fur traders and later the settlers would have had a much harder time pushing west. If it were not for the National Park Service, Fort Laramie might have gone by the wayside just like Sherman. But since it is now a National Historical Site, it is well preserved and even reconstructed and they have a very informative audio tour. Our visit got interrupted by a storm, hail and a Tornado warning. Luckily, the Tornado never came and it just meant we had to spend more time in the historical saloon and the park ranger spent more time with us in the trading post since he did not want to get wet either. 

Then we made it to Nebraska, our fist new state of this trip. I think we only have about 8 states left now, that we have not been to. Not sure whether we get to all of them on this trip, but I have no doubt we’ll get to all of them eventually. Nebraska welcomed us with a great campground with a very nice disc golf course. Scott Bluff, Nebraska was surprisingly enjoyable. We came here mostly for the namesake National Monument and for the “Chimney Rock” that marked the beginning of the ‘rocky mountainous' part of the journey for the settlers on the Oregon Trail. But we also enjoyed one of our nicest dinners here and got to watch “I, Claude Monet” at the historical Midwest Theater. 

Fort Robinson is the comeback kid amongst all the forts. It has managed to stay relevant throughout the past two centuries. It started as a trading post, became the most important military fort when it got connected to the railroad instead of Fort Laramie and was the site where the Indian chief Crazy Horse surrendered and got killed. At one point they trained 20,000 horses for the cavalier here, later 10,000 dogs were trained here for the military. It also housed German prisoners of war, who seemed to appreciate these beautiful surroundings and the humane treatment compared to the horrors of WW II.  After the Fort lost it’s military purpose, it became a research station for the FDA and then a state park. 

Todays activities at Fort Robinson are as diverse as it's colorful history. My favorite part was the rodeo. This was a family affair. Maybe not the most skilled cowboy competitors or as the announcer said “you’ll find out soon enough why this is a free rodeo". In fact, it was less of a traditional rodeo and more of a ‘game night with horses’. Amongst other games, they played horseback musical chairs! We also visited the museum, went to a western style cookout, got a private horseback ride to the bluffs above the fort and a wagon tour through the fort. 

From my new favorite state park we drove to South Dakota, where “Joy” got her official license plates. South Dakota is a very friendly state for out of state RVers. They let us use our Hawaii drivers license, our Hawaii address and they don’t ever require us to come back here to renew the registration or for any inspections. Visiting the DMV here was a pleasant, 20 minute affair and we walked out with our new Mount Rushmore plates. What a difference to 10 years ago when it took over 2 months and way too much favors to ask of Kelly to finally get our Colorado plates.

When you visit this many interesting places, there is never enough time to do in-depth research about where you want to visit or what you are going to see there. That’s why we love National Park Service  sites, since you already know it’s going to be worthwhile and well organized, no matter what it is. So we went to the Wind Cave National Park without even knowing whether it’s an actual cave. (After all, there are no diamonds at Diamond Head and no pearls at Pearl Harbor…) Wind Cave turns out is an actual cave and it actually can be windy in parts. We’ve been to a lot of caves already, but this one is special. Or, according to the scientific description of the local geologists: “really weird”. As you can see on the pictures below, the layout of the cave is just as intricate as the “box work” formations it’s known for. And to top it all off, there was a campfire ranger program about bats at the campground. Just like at Disney, they even had bats fly over us right at the beginning of the program. Did you know there are over 1,000 bat species around the world and they can have a wingspan of over 5 feet? Fun Birthday!

The Black Hills of South Dakota are beautiful this time of the year. But of course, human can’t leave good enough alone. So they first carved Mount Rushmore into the rocky peaks of the Black Hills and then somebody realized that the native people of the area should be honored in a similar way. I personally feel that both Mount Rushmore and the Crazy Horse Memorial, which is still being carved, enhance the beauty of this area even more. We had been to Mount Rushmore before, but since our 1993 visit, the facilities have been completely redone. Most visitors (including us in 1993) spend an hour or two at Mount Rushmore. This time, we spent all day here, including five different ranger talks and ranger walks and a very patriotic evening program in the new huge amphitheater. One program was about why these four presidents were chosen: Washington for founding the country (obvious choice), Jefferson for expanding the country (Louisiana purchase), Lincoln for preserving the country (civil war, abolishing slavery) and Theodor Roosevelt for developing and preserving the country (eg. the Panama Canal and all his land preservation efforts). Mount Rushmore is where I’d like to go when we get our dual citizenship, as long as they leave it with just the four presidents up there...

Mount Rushmore was originally conceived to draw tourists to the Black Hills and boy did that work out well! This one site gets 2.5 million visitors annually, more than the whole island of Maui! There are many businesses today that profit from this crazy idea about 100 years ago to carve 60 foot tall  faces into the mountains. One of them is the “National Presidential Wax Museum” and as amateur scholars of American presidential history, of course we had to go there. They display very realistic looking wax versions of all presidents in historical settings. I post a picture of some early presidents below. Mostly because this museum is one of the few places where I preferred Trump over Obama. Trump looked scarily realistic while Obama was almost unrecognizable, maybe because he was the only one where they had to use a different color of wax.

I can see how the Badlands got their name. If you are traversing the continent in a wagon, these formations were obviously very bad. However, by now the interstate goes around them and there are very scenic roads and hiking trails right through them, so I think they should be re-named "The Goodlands". We got to camp right on a ridge overlooking these good badlands. What a view to wake up to!

How old a historical site is has nothing to do with how interesting it is. Case in point: The Minuteman Missile National Historic Site. This is the visitor center for the only one remaining of 150 missile silos that used to be placed throughout the South Dakota plains. A few decades ago, there were still missiles in them, ready to destroy the world if the Soviets had attacked. There is  a great museum about the Cold War here. It is scary how close to a nuclear war the world has been a few times. Also scary that there are still nuclear missiles not just at other sites in the US, but around the world. I guess the strategy of 'Mutual Assured Destruction' still works.

We thought Cheyenne was a pretty relaxed town for a state capital. That was before we had been to Pierre, the capital of South Dakota. They have a beautiful capitol building with a great self guided tour and a great museum about the state’s history and also a very nice laundromat. And they definitely take the prize for most relaxed capital. When they elected Pierre to be state capital, I am sure they expected the town to boom. But to this day only 14,000 people live here. Apparently, the lack of rain, the cold winter and the remote location kept this town from becoming anything, except the political center of South Dakota. Where else can you be within less than half a mile of the state capitol and still be surrounded by grassland? And where else can you drive up in an RV and basically park right at the steps of the capitol?

I promise before to tell you also about the not so great experiences on our trip. Two nights ago, we got caught in a thunderstorm. We awoke when Joy started shaking violently, with heavy rain and even hail. According to the severe weather warning, the storm had gusts of up to 60mph. Apparently, we were not even in the heart of it, so maybe we only got 50mph winds, but it felt like 80. Glad to report that it caused no serious damage and now we enjoy any bad weather since it hopefully will not get that bad again. These storms seem to be somewhat commonplace on the northern plains. If this is their summer weather, we don’t want to find out what winters are like. We’ll be way further south by the fall and back in sunny Hawaii for the winter…as we said: The best of Both Worlds!

Aloha from South Dakota,
Chris & Sandra

















Monday, June 18, 2018

Finding JOY in Vegas - 1st Update from Chrisandra's Best of Both Worlds Roadtrip

Aloha all,
Sandra and I truly love living on Maui. What’s not to like…great friends, great weather, great island. In all our travels, we have not found a place where we’d rather live. However, our big passion are road trips. Even in our tropical island home, we occasionally get nostalgic thinking of our past road trips. 

So for the past few years we have been hatching a plan, which we call “The Best of Both Worlds”. We plan to live on Maui for half the year and road tripping in an RV for the other half. Luckily, my job is very mobile and Sandra’s company is nice enough to give her 6 months unpaid vacation. And for once, the high rental rates on Maui are a good thing. It took a few weeks, but it was well worth the effort to clean out our condo to rent it out for the 6 months we are gone. We probably could not afford this otherwise. I do not consider ourselves hoarders, but it’s amazing how much stuff accumulates living in the same place for 10 years. Who needs 7 umbrellas or 48 light bulbs? It felt good cutting down at least on some of the clutter. After all: We know how happy we are on the road with so much less stuff. The best things in life most definitely are not things. We still packed what we could so that we would not have to buy too much of the same stuff we just had to give away. Considering our bags at the airport weighed in at 49.5 and 50.0 pounds, I think we did quite well.

From our past trips and from months of research online, we pretty much knew which RV we wanted and that the best selection for those was in Las Vegas. It was still fun to shop around and look at the various models, even though we ended up with the Winnebago Minnie Winnie 22R which had been our favorite to begin with. This was the first time for us to stay in Vegas away from the strip. Our hotel was on Boulder Highway, which happens to be the RV Dealer strip. And on this trip RV dealers were more important to us than card dealers. Actually, instead of our ridiculously low gambling limit of about $20/day we only spent $2 on gambling this time. We feel we are lucky enough without winning a jackpot. 

The money we did not loose gambling we spent on show tickets. We got to see Hamilton, which had just opened at the Smith Center in Vegas. Now we know why everybody is going gaga about this musical. It is THAT good. In fact, it’s our new favorite musical. I love that it does not only seem to attract American history loving musical enthusiasts like us, but people of all ages, all colors and all backgrounds. The other show we saw was Cirque De Soleil’s “One”, the Michael Jackson show. Quite the spectacle and luckily so different from Hamilton that we can’t even compare it. Because if we were to compare it to Hamilton, this great show would easily loose. Since we never got to see Michael Jackson live, this is probably the next best thing. And in case they don’t make a show for every music legend out there, we already bought tickets for later in the trip to see Def Leppard, Journey & Foreigner. 

We also saw two great museums: The new “Mob Museum” and the "Clark County Museum” in Henderson. This collection of historical buildings was full of interesting trivia. For example: Did you know that in the 50’s, locals went out to the Nevada desert to see the nuclear bomb tests? Nobody seemed to be aware or concerned about radiation. In fact, one article quoted people being disappointed that the blast was not as big as anticipated. They also had an evening newspaper from Dec 7, 1941. To my surprise, they already reported on the attack on Pearl Harbor. Maybe less surprising that they got some of the fact wrong. They mentioned that “many Jap planes were shot down” which is as much of an exaggeration as it is an understatement to say the “several people were believed to be killed”. But I think those "fake news” were just a lack of knowledge, I don’t think we can blame the Russians for that.

The rest of our 3 days in Vegas we spent shopping for supplies for the RV (including over 5 hours at Costco & Walmart), eating too much food (including at our favorite breakfast place, where we could not even finish one ‘regular size’ omelet, which is made with 6 eggs and enough potatoes to fill a medium size bathtub) and I think we saw about 5 of the water fountain shows at the Bellagio. After we picked the RV, wired the money and signed a few dozen papers, we were on our way. So good to be back on the open road!

Our first night we spent at the Valley of Fire State Park, where surprisingly we had not been before. Great rock formations and great colors…and already the first truly interesting people we met on this trip. Our campground neighbors had a German RV with actual German license plates. Of course I had to break the golden campground rule and disturb them to find out what that was all about. Turns out they are on a longer road trip than us and it’s not even that hard to ship your RV from Europe. We ended up talking to them for a couple of hours since obviously we had a lot in common, even though we came to this place from the opposite ends of the worlds. 

Off to Utah! Since we have been in this neck of the desert before, we were able to skip the crowded, popular parks, like Zion or Bryce. Instead we went to Cedar Breaks National Monument, which I think is just as pretty and much less busy. We even got a campsite late in the afternoon without a reservation and a great sunset ranger program. We had been here 25 years ago. I am so grateful that it’s still pretty much the same and that it probably will be the same in another 25 years. Look at the pictures and tell me: Do you feel that it needs any changes or improvements?

We also got to see a National Park Service site we had not seen before: The Timpanogos Cave is one of the nicer caves we have ever been to, even the hike to the cave is spectacular and the ranger led tour was yet again inspirational and informative at the same time. Say what you want about the government, but I feel they do some things right and the National Park Service is my prime example.

We try to see the state capitol in every state we visit, even if it means having to drive the RV into a larger city. The Utah capitol building alone was worth the drive into Salt Lake City. What a palace! I just can’t get over this fact: The first Mormon pioneers arrived here around 1850 and found a very barren landscape with pretty much no infrastructure at all. Not even 50 years later, Utah is a state and only a few years after that they built this bombastic state capitol building, which is more luxurious and more impressive than any capitol building we have seen - and we have seen over a dozen of them already. Even more impressive that they did not go into debt to build it. Utah seems to be different that way, they have tried to balance their budget for most of their history. I guess if you can afford it, why not build a capitol that represents the state in a truly grand way. When they renovated the building a few years ago, they even made it earthquake safe, without waiting for a disaster to strike first. Saving before spending money and planing ahead, what a novel idea! The volunteer tour guide was certainly proud of the building and of Utah overall. I can’t blame her; Utah is currently my favorite mainland state. Sorry, Colorado, but 2nd out of 48 is still pretty good! 

We also took a short stroll through downtown Salt Lake City, but spent more time in the mall than at the impressive looking sites from the Mormon Church. We were more hungry for food than for salvation. Usually, I am not shy visiting all kinds of different places. But the Mormons seem to be so nice, so efficient and so industrial, we were concerned they might convert us after all. Kind of like we are sometimes concerned we might buy a timeshare, even though we are quite convinced it’s not the right thing for us. 

What is the right thing for us is surprisingly interesting places and the serendipity that gets us there. It was surprisingly easy to park next to the capitol building in Salt Lake City. For the night, we headed out of the city and into the mountains and found a lovely Walmart that let us spend the night. It just happened to be in Park City and it just happened to have a view of the Olympic Park of the 2002 Winter Games. We took the short drive up just to take a quick look and ended up staying pretty much the whole day. I used to work as a tour guide at the Olympiapark in Munich (maybe my favorite job ever!) and I love it when the Olympic sites stay alive after the games. And boy was the Utah Olympic Park here alive: They have a free museum about the Olympics, a free ski museum, and a seemingly endless buffet of activities, from zip lines, summer bob sled rides to tubing and an adventure park. 

I don’t think I was a bad tour guide at the Olympic Park in Munich, but I was nothing compared to our tour guide here. Then again, I have not worked as an official announcer for the past 8 Olympic Games. He just seemed to know everything and he had that perfect announcer voice and a great olympic attitude. We got to see the future Olympic ski jumpers in action at the training pool, we saw the bob sled track and the ski jumps. In fact, we got to see those almost from the athlet’s perspective since they build a zip  line right next to the ski jump.

Just for full disclosure: Of course not everything always goes smoothly on a road trip. We got pulled over by a cop within 5 minutes of test driving the RV and had an engine malfunction on the second day. In the Valley of Fire it was so hot that we did not even want to do some pretty short hikes and the very next night, surprisingly it was so cold that we missed the blanket that we thought we would not need till the fall. And today it rained for most of the day.  But not to worry: The cop only talked to the sales person regarding the missing license plates and the malfunction warning light turned out to be harmless. We still got to enjoy the Valley of Fire, despite the heat and by now, we also have a warm blanket. 

The first week has been so full of all different kinds of experiences that we did not mind spending the rainy day today to make some progress towards South Dakota, where we need to be by next week to register the RV. At least we got to go to a free movie today, just to take advantage of that magical MoviePass we have. If you live in the US and have not heard my sales pitch for MoviePass, let me know. I promise you won’t be converted to some weird religion.

If you also follow us on Facebook, you might have read that we were looking for nick name for our RV. We got a lot of really great suggestions. At the end we could not decide between “Henry” (since the engine is a Ford) and “Joy” (since that’s what she gives us). When a warning light came on which might indicate to “Check Engine Soon” or “Please Name the RV Soon”, we decided that we will let the RV decide: If it had been something serious, he would have been “Oh Henry”, but it was harmless and so we were happy to christen her “Joy”.

I find it mind boggling how much we have seen in just the first week on the road and we are so excited to find out where else Joy will take us in the next 25 weeks. 
Until then; Aloha from Wyoming,
Chris & Sandra














Tuesday, April 4, 2017

Chris and Linnea's RoadTrip in 2017

Aloha all,
in my view, you can’t get much luckier than being able to take off for a month and go on a road trip. But it’s even better if you can pretend that you do it only to do your niece a favor. Unfortunately, Sandra was not able to come along, but I am very grateful that I have a job (and a wife!) that allows me to work on the road and a niece giving me an excuse to go on another road trip. Of course just to fulfill my duties as an uncle and to be fair, since Ronja got to go last year. Ronja and Linnea have a competition about whose road trip was more fun. I am tempted to call it a tie, mostly so that they have to go on more trips with me to settle the score.


We started off in Colorado again, because that’s where Homer (the RV that Bunt and Ann let us use again, mahalo!), spent the winter in his barn and because Kelly, Paul, Trevor and Cody are such nice people. While there, we got to go disc golfing, played ping pong, visited the state capitol and the historic Molly Brown House, went to the opening game of the Colorado Rapids pro soccer team and even got to play some early morning indoor Ultimate pick up. That was fun, but it also reminded me how lucky we are on Maui, where we can play frisbee outdoors all year long at any time and don’t have to get up at 7am on a Sunday, because that’s when the arena is available.

Our favorite part was the skiing. I ran out of superlatives to describe how much fun I had last year when I went skiing with Ronja for the very first time. It’s hard to describe the feeling you get from gliding down a mountain, especially when you never did that for the first 45 years of your life. Our friend Bunt describes skiing as “the closest thing to flying”, which I find ironic since as a pilot he spent over 30 years actually flying. For me, scuba diving is the closest thing to flying. Skiing to me is the closest thing to suicide without actually hurting yourself. I know that for most people, the hills I ski are totally harmless or even boring, but I feel like I a maniac, racing down the mountain at incredible speeds with no idea why I don’t crash all the time. Green and blue runs might seem super slow to experienced skiers, but I am as thrilled as any ‘real’ skier on any double black diamond run. What a rush! I am also glad that Trevor took Linnea on a black run once. That seemed to push her to her limits and after that she was really happy to stay with me on the beginner slopes again.


We spent one day skiing at Loveland, one day with Trevor at Arapahoe Basin and since we had so much fun, one more day later in the trip at Sunlight Mountain in Glenwood Springs. Since I had skied only two times before in my life, I am still amazed that I survived without any injuries, even though Linnea tricked me into going on some blue runs. The only time I crashed was when Linnea actually tried to help me to stay on the track and I didn’t believe that down that steep hill was where we were supposed to go. Instead, I found a nice flat path to nowhere, that let me safely fall into very soft snow. My favorite ski day was at Sunlight Mountain since it was the site of my greatest achievement (surviving the Sun King run) and my favorite run overall (a 4km long green run called “Ute”). Combine that with picture perfect blue skies, an incredible value and awesome view and it’s about as much fun as any person should legally be allowed to have in one day.

We had great weather overall, but on the fist day on the road, we actually hit a snowstorm. We barely saw the road a few feet in front of us. But parking on I 40 is not really an option and we had a game night to go to, so we kept going and made it to Copper Mountain safely. That game night in Copper was a spontaneous addition that I thank Facebook for. I wasn’t aware that we were so close to the new home of Allison (an Ultimate frisbee friend from Maui), let alone that she was hosting a game night that day. As most of you know, I love road trips and I love playing games, so being able to combine those two things is a real treat for me. As an extra bonus, in a bar later that night, Linnea ran into another Linnea who just happens to also play Ultimate frisbee. What are the chances? But it got even better. Now keep in mind, that Linnea is not the most common name in America. The next night, we have dinner at a random Chinese restaurant. Linnea just loves it. Just for kicks, we look up the Yelp reviews. Pretty much all of them 4 or 5 stars…until I find one single one star review. This person just hated the place…but I couldn’t stop laughing when I saw it…can you guess the name of that person? Yes, sure enough, another Linnea! Maybe better Linnea only met her fun, frisbee playing doppelgänger.

It was too cold and too expensive for us to ski at Copper Mountain, so we opted just to go tubing instead before continuing west and soon the weather improved enough that we could start our routine to finding a new disc golf course and playing a round or two pretty much every day. I want to thank all the nameless volunteers who build and maintain these free disc golf courses throughout the country, also the makers of the Udisc app who make it so easy to find them and Linnea for teaching me a thing or two about approaching and putting. She ended up winning 11-7, but not without some really close fought competitions on a variety of very scenic courses, from desert flats to snow capped hilltops, some even with the added bonus of wildlife encounters, such as deer, rabbits and a fox. 


Arches was probably our favorite of all the National Parks and National Monuments we visited. Even after hearing the scientific explanation for the 10th time why there are so many arches in such a small area, I have to say: The most logical explanation, even to my agnostic mind, is that the gods must be crazy. Some of these arches seem to defy gravity, like the Landscape Arch that is super thin but almost 100 meters across! The astounding number of arches alone defies the odds. We only saw a few dozen, but there are over 2,000 of them! Well, it’s pretty enough in that neck of the desert, I don’t mind going back there some day to see the rest. We also enjoyed a long hike in Canyonlands and seeing the cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde and the other archeological sites at the Navajo and Wupatki National Monuments. The Four Corners Monument is fun, but not really that impressive since it’s just a marker where 4 states meet and a bunch of gift shops, but I found it intriguing to read how the monument is exactly in the right spot, even though it’s at least 500 meters away from where the states were supposed to meet…


I never smoked a cigarette in my life. But thanks to the Marlboro commercials, Monument Valley is the quintessential landscape of the American Southwest to me. We got there in time to see a wonderful sunset. If you have been to Monument Valley, you might notice how special that is. Since you are looking east, you usually have to get up early for the sunrise to see the beautiful colors. But this just happened to be one of those 360 degree sunsets, allowing us to sleep in the next morning. We also were lucky to get a private horseback ride. Even though we paid for it, it felt like our new Navajo friend showed us his country rather than a commercial tour. Another advantage of this being on a Navajo reservation: They seem a little less concerned about being sued. There is no way anybody in the ‘regular’ United States would allow a novice like myself to trot, let alone canter or gallop. This is what I found intriguing about Marlboro country, not the smoking.


I must have been to the Grand Canyon half a dozen times now, but it does not seize to impress me. The size, the colors, the formations… Eventually, we will have to follow our friend RJ’s advice and plan a weeklong rafting trip through this amazing landscape. For now, we just walked along the rim and took a short hike into the canyon. We enjoyed finding the scariest looking spots to take pictures (that are not really dangerous), resulting in my favorite picture of this trip (see below).



On the way from the Grand Canyon to Las Vegas, we took a little detour on the historical Route 66. By far my favorite part was the semi ghost town of Oatman. The town and it’s location is pretty cute to begin with, but the free roaming wild donkeys just made it extra special. This unique town seems to attract unique people, too. By coincidence we stopped at a nearby pass that locals use as a place to party, as a memorial park to scatter the ashes of loved ones, as a pet cemetery or to get married. 



If you ask Linnea about her favorite and her least favorite city on this trip, you might get the same answer: Las Vegas. I fully understand: It boggles my mind that this city not only survives, but thrives in the middle of the desert. You have to love the shear craziness of it all, but how can you not be appalled by all the fakeness? What I like least about Vegas is the fact that they make it easier for you to loose a fortune or get married while drunk than to simply cross the street! What? Do we really have to walk through another casino just to get to the other side?


But I love the shows. We watched the Blue Man Group and a Cirque de Soleil show. I can’t tell you which one, Linnea’s parents and grandparents are reading this update and I don’t what them to think I’m a bad influence on Linnea. But it was the only Cirque de Soleil show available at the half price ticket office and it was equally amazing as other Cirque shows, just with different costumes (or lack thereof). Other than that, we rode the roller coaster through fake New York, walked along the surprisingly pleasant canals of fake Venice and marveled at the water fountain shows at fake lake in front of the Bellagio. Amongst all the fake stuff in Vegas, it seemed out of place to get any real historical experience here. But we found the Titanic exhibition at the Luxor to be surprisingly informative and authentic, considering it’s housed inside a fake pyramid. 

Surprisingly, one of the highlights of Las Vegas was a lunch at a sports bar. After we found out that both of the Swiss tennis stars had made it to the semi finals of Indian Wells, we started to pay attention. I wasn’t willing to drive a few hundred miles and spend a few hundred dollars just to see any tennis match. But the second Federer won his semi final and it was clear that the final was going to be an all-Swiss affair between Roger Federer and Stan Wawrinka, there was no way not to go there. How often can you see the world’s best tennis player AND take your niece from Switzerland to a big tennis tournament and guarantee a Swiss victory? Getting those two tickets for the final was like hitting an actual jackpot to us and we were more than happy to get up at 5am the next morning to make it to Palm Desert in time.

The lady’s final was an all Russian affair, we thought they were really good…until Federer and Wawrinka started playing. Tennis looks so much faster in real life than on TV. When I watch them on TV, I think to myself “They are good, they would probably beat me fairly easily”. When I see them in real life, I think: “Wow, I would not get a single ball back.” Federer won, just to cement his status as the best tennis player of all times. I guess the rest of the tennis world knew that already, now I agree.


Since we skipped over a few hundred miles to get to the tennis final, we ended up with more time than expected in Los Angeles. First, we naively thought that we could go to the Hollywood sign. Now, compared to earlier years, the directions from Google and Apple Maps have gotten much better; we have used them successfully to find all the RV parks and disc golf courses, etc. Not so easy with the Hollywood sign. The neighborhoods close to the Hollywood sign have convinced Apple and Google to show the sign in the right place, but when you follow the directions, you end up on the next hill over, at the Griffith Observatory. Now lucky for us, this turned out to be just as interesting. When Linnea was on Maui, before we went to see the Movie “La La Land”, we ran into our friend Annie on the beach and she told us to watch for the split second in the movie when they walk into the “Ann Marie and Jack Wilder Hall of the Eye” that they sponsored. Seeing the sign with their name in real life was more exciting for me than seeing that Hollywood sign, so I guess: Thank you for screwing with us, Google Maps.

Another thing that is hard to find in Los Angeles is a reasonably priced RV park. The otherwise RV friendly Walmarts don’t allow overnight parking in LA either. I was ready to look for a cheap motel instead when we saw the bright lights of Bob’s Big Boy Diner. We decided to eat first. Our server was so fun and friendly that I was encouraged to ask and sure enough, they allowed us to stay overnight in their parking lot for free. With the money we saved we filled up on burgers and pancakes and bought two 2-day passes for the Universal Studios, which are just around the corner from there.


We loved the new “Wizarding World of Harry Potter” attraction at Universal. “Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey” is an incredible ride that makes you feel like you really fly through Hogwarts and actually play Quiddich with Harry. Unfortunately, it also made us feel like we had to puke. Remind me to take some motion sickness pills next time I’m going on any thrill rides. Surprisingly, I also enjoyed the sweet butter beer in Hogsmeade. Other highlights at Universal were the much improved Studio Tour, the Jurassic Park boat ride, the Mummy backwards roller coaster, the animal and the stunt show as well as meeting Shrek and Homer (not our home Homer, but Homer Simpson).


With Ronja last year, we rode a tandem over the Golden Gate bridge on the last day, which was pretty cool. Of course Linnea would not let Ronja score an easy point in the road trip competition, so we rode a tandem along Venice Beach and to top it off, watched an NHL hockey game between the Anaheim Ducks and the Edmonton Oilers. Sadly, the next morning it was time to bring Linnea to the airport and continue the road trip by myself for a few more days. I was mostly trying to get Homer ready to be sold, but I was lucky to be able to squeeze in just a few more fun and interesting things:

Presidential history is one of Sandra and my favorite things, so I visited the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library im Simi Valley. It was easy to promise to go again with Sandra. Even though I spent all day there, it’s hard for us to see everything in one visit in most presidential libraries. Of course these places always make ‘their’ president appear in the best possible light. For example, even though they show Reagan’s younger years and his marriage to Nancy in detail, they never mention that he was married for nine years before he met Nancy. But (maybe compared to current events?) he seemed to have been a very decent man, husband and president. I found it ironic that they have Reagan’s quote “Mr. Gorbachev, Tear down this wall!” as prominently displayed as Trump nowadays proclaims his plan to build a wall. 


Allensworth is (or was) a very unique town. It’s the only town in California that was founded and governed by African Americans, former slaves to be precise. In 1908, when it was pretty much impossible for blacks to get a fair shake anywhere else, they started this town and were very successful for a while, until a declining water table, the relocation of the train station and the untimely death of their founder brought hard times to Allensworth. Today, it’s a State Historical Park that, at least when I went there, felt like a ghost town.

The Forestiere Underground Gardens in Fresno are an unlikely attraction and unlike anything else I have seen. A citrus farmer from Sicily bought this land over 100 years ago to start an orange farm. But he quickly learnt that the ground was way too hard to plant citrus trees commercially. He was also awfully hot in the summer. Since he had worked on the New York subway tunnels, he knew it was cooler underground, so he started digging a cave on his land…and basically did not stop digging for over 40 years. I guess he really digged digging. He envisioned an underground resort and for an obviously crazy idea, he was surprisingly successful. After 20 years of digging in his spare time, he had built enough of an attraction with underground gardens, dozens of caves, rooms and hallways that he was able to quit his day job. For the next 20 years he continued digging, pretty much by himself, making a living off tours and hosting parties in the cool caves under the desert heat. The Underground Gardens are still run by the family and they offer hour long tours through this eccentric place. Got to love crazy people!

Another amazing person who just keeps doing what he likes is Noel Stookey, who is better known by his middle name Paul. If that does not ring a bell: His friends include Peter and Mary. I saw the announcement for this concert at the historic Tower Theater in Fresno and I will admit, I was mostly interested because he was part of Peter, Paul & Mary. Not sure I would have gone to a concert by just any 80 year old singer/songwriter. At first I was hoping he would play mostly the old familiar songs, but that quickly changed. What a likable, agile, talented, interesting man. Every song he sang and every story he told made me smile, laugh or think. 


After three wonderful trips in Homer, our Home on the Road, it was sad to get him ready to be sold. But RVs don’t get better with age, especially if they don’t get used. So understandably, Bunt and Ann rather want to sell him. But since the competition for the best road trip between Ronja and Linnea was too close to call, I am convinced that there will be more trips in our future. Hopefully, Sandra wants to get in on the competition who has the most fun road trip ever. Going without Sandra has only one advantage: I was actually happy to come home. Oh yeah, and being back on Maui is not the worst place to be either. However, it makes me think that pretty much everybody I talked to after coming back from this trip and asked what was new and exciting answered “Not much, same same.” Now “same same” on Maui means same great weather, same nice people, same beautiful beaches, but life on the road seems a little bit fuller. That’s why my updates are so darn long. Sorry for that, but thanks for reading.

And that’s the news from Lake Linnea, where all the Swiss players are strong, all the disc golf courses are good looking and every day is more fun than average.
Aloha,
Chris



Monday, October 3, 2016

Awesome Australia

Aloha all,
if you receive this e-mail, you are either not on Facebook or you have expressed some interest about reading my travel updates. Either way, consider yourself part of our “intellectual friends” and as such, I hope you are not scared by the length of this text. 

Usually, I write my travelogs weekly, because I realize that otherwise they get way too long for most people to read. However, our three week trip to Australia was so full of experiences (and I also worked a little every day) that I did not get to write anything while we were still down under. That’s why this update will be so long that I suggest you only read it if you either have never been to Australia or if you have been to Australia yourself. In those two cases, I hope you might find something interesting in this writing, if you don’t fall into one of these two categories, feel free to ignore it. Of course, that would mean that you never hear about our new favorite city in the world, about our new favorite sport, why we love Australian history and how I met the Australian prime minister.


The main reason that we had not visited Australia earlier is that poisonous spiders and snakes are not amongst Sandra’s favorite animals. Surprisingly, we did not see any dangerous critters at all, even though Australia is known for having all these deadly animals. Granted, my knowledge of Australia before this trip was pretty much based on the Crocodile Dundee movie, a few visits to the Outback Steakhouse and reading half of the Bill Bryson book “In a Sunburned country”. In that book, he mentions deadly seashells, birds with razor claws and rays that give out 220 Volt shocks. Our friend Barb had also told us of being scolded after complaining of a rash: “You touched a plant???” like it’s obvious that nobody with a will to live would ever touch a green leaf. Bryson also points out that Australians always insist that the stories about dangerous animals in Australia are completely exaggerated, but without irony continue to tell you a story about a neighbor who lost an arm to a crocodile or a friend who found a deadly spider in his mailbox. So we were not quite sure what to expect. I hope you will continue to read, even though I can tell you, pretty much all animals we saw were very cute and fuzzy or very colorful birds and we never got as much as a mosquito bite. And we even touched the plants! 

Not everybody is so lucky: Last night I was catching up on the news we had missed while we were gone. By ‘catching up on the news’ of course I mean that I watched clips from the Late Show with Stephen Colbert. He was telling the story of this poor Australian guy who got bitten by a poisonous snake while sitting on a portable toilet at a construction site in Sydney. The scary part: He got bitten where it hurts the most. So nothing that Sandra would have to worry about. The funny part (not for him, but apparently for the crew at the hospital): This was the second time this year that this has happened to him…

Our tour got off to a good start: I always get a kick out of the fact that we can walk to our little neighborhood airport in West Maui, even more so when embarking on foot for a trip to Australia. Then the pilot on the Mokulele island hopper to Honolulu took us on such a scenic flight so close to the sea cliffs of Moloka’i that Sandra felt compelled to tip the pilot. When’s the last time you felt like tipping a pilot? Early the next morning we flew from Honolulu to Sydney on Jetair, the budget airline from Qantas. The flight was only $570 for a round trip of over 10,000 miles! Then again, if you want to check a couple of bags, reserve a nice seat,  watch a movie, get a meal and a blanket and buy the insurance, you could almost spend that much again on optional extras. Surprisingly for such a cheap flight, we flew in a brand shiny new Boeing Dreamliner, which is something we wanted to do before they were even in service, ever since we saw it being built on the factory tour at Boeing in Washington.

We spent three days in Sydney, which quickly became my new favorite city in the world! Sydney seems to have it all: All the amenities of a big city, but still very walkable, a great mix of historic and modern buildings, lots of gardens and parks, restaurants of any kind, theater and even a pretty nice little opera house. As customary, we wen to the next observation deck to get an overview of the city as soon as we arrived. This one was the revolving ‘O Bar’ at the Australian Square. Besides great views they had some of the best mushrooms I ever tasted. We also got an Australian sim card, an adapter and the handy Opal card for Sydney’s public transportation, which includes some very scenic ferry rides.


After getting a physical overview, it was time to get a historical overview. For that we went to the Sydney History Museum. Here we learnt that our hotel with the weird name “The Tank Stream” was actually at the very spot where the first Europeans settled. They chose that spot because of a stream that later got a tank (hence the name) and then got paved over completely so that we would have a place to stay. We would have never known just from staying at the hotel. We were quickly captivated by the unique history of Australia from a convict colony to a modern, cosmopolitan country. Luckily, we bought a museums pass here even though we had no idea how much advantage of it we would take. For example, we took a wonderful day trip on the public ferry to Parramatta the next day, where we visited the historic Elisabeth Farm and took a lovely walk along the river front to the Old Government House. 

I think I figured it out, why we enjoy American, and now Australian, history so much, even though neither Sandra nor I were ever really interested in history growing up in Germany. European history is way too complicated. You could study it for a long time and still be confused about who did what, when, where and why. American history is a already a lot more compact and therefore much more interesting to us. You feel you have a chance to at least get a rough idea what was going on at some point.

Now apply this line of thinking to Australian history: If you conveniently ignore the 60,000 years of Aborigine history and just start with the white people coming here you basically only need two dates to get a frame of reference for any building you see or any historical event or person you hear about: 1788; when the British arrived on the ‘First Fleet’ on eleven ships with over 1,300 people, about half of them convicts, to set up a colony and alleviate the overcrowded prions back home. And 1900; when the independent territories and colonies decided to form one republic called Australia. Neat and easy, isn’t it? It’s a dream for lazy history nerds like us. Australian history is not unlike American history, but even shorter and minus the wars over the control of the continent and the revolution to become independent. No tea was harmed in the making of this country.

Another reason why I love Sydney: There are Australians all over this place. I like Australia, but I have come to LOVE Australians. They are so easy going, friendly and helpful that it became a tradition, that after meeting and talking to an Australian, Sandra and I would turn to each other and say ’Such lovely people here!’. I wonder how Australians feel when they go to Europe. Are they wondering why so many people are either rude or at least seem to ignore other people? I actually asked some Australians that very question, but of course they were too nice to answer it.

Don’t get me wrong, I think most Europeans are very nice. Specially to people they know well. But I just love the ease with which Americans (and Australians even more so) talk to and interact with strangers. In Germany, I often still feel that the first thought if a stranger dares to talk to you is ”What does he want from me?”. Maybe Australians are so open because they found out that pretty much everybody you meet in Australia is very nice: In three weeks in Australia, we did not meet a single idiot, actually not even an unpleasant person. 

After three days in Sydney, we rented a car and drove on the wrong side of the road to the Blue Mountain National Park. Luckily, everybody else was driving on the wrong side of the road, too. As I was getting in the car, I remembered how in New Zealand we would continually start the windshield wipers when we wanted to use the turn signal. But even with that thought in mind, I managed to turn on the wipers on each of the first three turns. 

Based on a suggestion from a lovely couple we had met at a museum, our first stop outside of Sydney was at the Norman Lindsay House. I had never heard of the guy, which is surprising, considering how much he has accomplished in his 90 years on this planet. There are people who are more productive and there are people who are less productive. And then there is Norman Lindsay: He was a very prolific Australian artist. He created hundreds of paintings, anything from portraits to nudes to landscapes. He also did probably thousands of sketches, countless sculptures and wrote a dozen novels. He also wrote and illustrated two children’s books, including the very cute Australian Classic “The Magic Pudding”. He did all this while holding a ‘regular job’ for a total of 50 years as an editorial cartoonist with a newspaper. He also built additions to his house and gardens and designed his own furniture. By now, I am sure you are wondering what he did in all his spare time. That’s when he built scale model of ships, dozens of them and each one looked like they would take a normal person about two years to build. Just to mix it up a little bit, he was also an accomplished boxer. Wow!


The Blue Mountains appear actually somewhat blue. I think their bigger mistake is calling it a national park. Don’t get me wrong, it’s very pretty and we enjoyed our few little hikes we did there. But if you come expecting anything like an American national park, you will probably be disappointed. It’s very pretty, but too be honest, I thought the scenery wasn’t as spectacular as any of the national parks in the American West. I guess living in Hawaii has spoiled us even further. 

‘National Park’ also seems to mean something else in Australia than in America. There are towns inside of the parks, new homes are being built inside park boundaries and in the case of the Blue Mountains, they even put in two gondolas and the steepest train in the world (the cable-driven Scenic Railway with an incline of 52 degrees!). Not that there is anything wrong with that. Of course we rode all of the rides, most of them twice. But let’s just say: I am glad that nobody is allowed to build their home on the rim of the Grand Canyon and that there is no gondola over Bryce Canyon.


On our way to Canberra, we saw our first kangaroos. Sadly, roughly the first twenty of them in form of road kill. It must have been a particularly dangerous highway and they probably leave the dead animals on the side of the road as a warning to other drivers. Later, we got to see plenty of kangaroos grazing and hopping and being alive. We also learnt the lesson not to trust Google maps in the Australian hinterland. It sent us on a ridiculous detour, which turned out to be one of our favorite drives. We had not even realized we were not on the intended road anymore until a flagman stopped us where they had to alternate traffic due to a landslide. We got talking to the flagman for about 10 minutes while waiting. Such lovely people. He pointed out that this was not really en route to Canberra, but we might as well keep going, especially since the road was about to get very scenic and go through an actual cave. I dod not quite know what to expect, but our road actually did go through an impressive cave, even with some stalactites. 


Canberra is the very well designed, yet a bit sterile capital of Australia. They had to built a new city since neither Sydney, nor Melbourne would have ever agreed to let the other one become the capital of the newly formed Australian republic. Canberra feels a bit fake, but not in a bad way. 1908 it was decided to move the capital to this site roughly in the middle between Sydney and Melbourne to a place with little more than sheep pastures. 5 years later, the foundation stone was laid. Over the next few decades, many official buildings and government institutions were brought to the new capital. Yet, by 1947 there were still only 15,000 people living there. Today, there are close to 400,000 people in Canberra. It might not take much longer for it to look and feel like a real city.


As the capitol, Canberra has plenty of the kind of things we like to visit: Lots of museums, an observation tower and all kinds of official buildings like the Old and the New Parliament House. Yes, the city is only a hundred years old and they already have on “Old Parliament House”. I think the town hall in my home town in Germany is older than any building white men ever built in all of Australia, but I have never heard it referred to as the “Old Town Hall”. 

We spent most of our first day in Canberra at the excellent National Museum of Australia. In case you were wondering why it takes so long to visit a museum about a country with only about 200 years of history: They also had a special exhibition from the British Museum “The History of the World in 100 Objects”. The seemingly random objects, together with great descriptions and an audio tour, managed to give a pretty good summary of the entire history of the human race. That can take the better half of a morning. Objects included, for example, a clay tablet from Iraq on which a story strikingly similar to Noah and his Ark was written down, some 700 years before the bible was written. Or the chronometer that Charles Darwin used when he sailed on the HMS Beagle to the Galapagos Islands, triggering his theory of evolution. Surprisingly, one of the 100 selected objects was a counterfeit football shirt. This did not make any sense to me until I read the explanation: It was a jersey of the British club Chelsea, which is Russian owned. The sponsor on the shirt is the Korean company Samsung. It’s the shirt of a player from the Ivory Coast, who grew up in France. This fake shirt was made in Indonesia, sold in Peru and now displayed in Australia. Can you think of a better object representing globalization? 


We also took a tour through the New Parliament House. The tour itself was very interesting already and gave us some first insights into Australian politics. Guess what? Not every politician is a saint down there either. One of my favorite things of the whole trip was the infamous “Question Time” I got to attend in the House of Representatives. This is a British/Australian tradition in which the opposition gets to ask the government any question they want in front of a packed house and rolling TV cameras. What a difference to the session we attended in the Senate for a short while in the morning, where one person was speaking, only a handful of others were present and nobody seemed to be listening. Question Time is a circus in comparison. If you have ever seen the House of Commons in London in action, you get the idea. Otherwise think of the Trump/Clinton debate taking place for an hour every single day that the House is in session. Very entertaining, but I am not sure how much is actually achieved by it. But it might be a good way to keep the government responsible for their actions since it is the actual prime minister and all the secretaries of each department who have to answer any question the opposition wants to ask. They covered everything from gay marriage to terrorism. What a hoot! 

Leaving Canberra and heading further south to the coast, our next stop was Philipp Island, which is famous for it’s “Penguin Parade”. Every night hundreds if not thousands of penguins come ashore, waddle across the beach and march to their burrows in the dunes. It’s quite the spectacle and also attracts about 2,000 humans every night, which is surprisingly well managed. We splurged and booked the Ultimate Penguin Adventure. No, we did not get to play frisbee with the penguins, but instead of watching the penguins from the bleachers with a huge crowd, we got a personal guided tour with just 8 guests to the other, more remote side of the island. At first I thought our tour guide was not the most scientific naturalist. He kept referring to the animals as ‘the little penguins’ which sounded cute, but not very professional. Then when asked what that black bird was that someone had seen, he answered that it’s a Blackbird, which turns out to be the actual name of the bird and I also found out that the specific species of penguin on Philipp Island is actually called “Little Penguin”. That is pretty descriptive since they are only about a foot tall. 


We found our spot to sit on the beach and BOOM! like clockwork, right after sunset, the penguins started to show up. We thought the extra money for the Ultimate Adventure was already worth it just to get the warm clothing and the night vision goggles. So instead of freezing in the dark, we actually were pretty comfortable and enjoyed our new superpower enabling us to watch the penguins even when it got pitch dark. Our guide counted 184 penguins on ‘our’ beach, apparently a record for the month. Then again, that could be like the whale watching crews on Maui, who claim regularly that this particular trip is the best one in a long time. 



We also got to see our first Koalas on Philipp Island, first in a preserve, later we also saw them in the wild. They are a little hard to spot, but very very cute. The good thing about Koalas is that once you find one, he’s not running away, they sit very still for a long time for you to take as many pictures as you want. The bad thing about koalas is that they sit very still for a very long time. Not many action shots.

The day we got to Melbourne included our least and our most favorite activities of this entire trip. I had gotten a little used to driving on the left. I don’t mind big city traffic, how hard can it be, we weren’t even in an RV. I think I’d rather drive an RV in Manhattan than trying to get to a downtown hotel in Melbourne during rush hour again. Australians must be hard working people, we thought by 5pm on Friday, it shouldn’t be too bad. Well, it was. I swear that every turn we wanted to make was not allowed. Either it was a one way street, construction, coned off or in one case (at around 5:05pm) no left turn after 5pm. Even legal turns can be a challenge in Melbourne. Since they have a lot of trams on most roads in the downtown area, they have these so-called “Melbourne Hook Turns”, where you are only allowed to turn right (which is equivalent with our left turn) from the far left lane. Somehow this is supposed to make it easier to avoid hitting the tram, pedestrians or other cars. It’s so confusing that it has its own wiki page with a 4 step explanation, just to make one turn. At some point, when we hoped to be fairly close to our hotel, we just gave up and drove into the next parking garage, regardless of how far we would have to walk or how much we would have to pay. It turned out to be pretty close and not too expensive. 

As soon as we got rid of our car, we loved Melbourne. As usual, we first looked for the tallest building with an observation deck, which in this case is the Eureka Tower. At almost 1,000 feet above the city, we got a very nice view all the way around. We noticed the lights coming on at the Melbourne Cricket Grounds across the river. We asked around and quickly found that it was the semi final of ‘Footy’, as they call the Australian rules football here. People up at Eureka tower and various online sources did not agree whether the game was sold out or not. We decided to walk over and find out. The first person we asked how to get there not only escorted us to the stadium, but also gave as a synopsis of the rules and the history of the game along the way. Such nice people. And that even though I had called his team the Bullfrogs instead of the Bulldogs. What can I say, the same day in the morning, we had attended a Bullfrog concert on Philipp Island. 

Turns out “only” 88,000 people wanted to see the game and the arena holds 90,000. So we were lucky enough to get tickets. It’s called a semi final, but as we found out, it’s actually the quarter final of the league since you still have to win the ‘preliminary final’ afterwards before you get to the actual final. When I discussed how illogical this is with an Australian footy fan and he explained that it has historical reasons, we determined that it makes just as much sense as the American electoral system. Footy is fast paced and surprisingly entertaining. I encourage you to watch a game when you can. There is more action and more scoring than in American football and it has more continuous play than soccer. They also don’t pretend to be hurt all the time like soccer players do and they don’t argue with the refs much. I was already entertained just watching the throw ins by the referees, which seems to be a whole different competition by itself. Of course it helped that the Bulldogs (who were also the underdogs) came back from over 30 points behind to win 107-84 against their Melbourne arch rival, who had won the league the past three years in a row. Go Bulldogs!!!


Melbourne is another fascinating city. They actually have the oldest building in all of Australia. The Cook Cottage, in which Captain Cook spent some time, was built in 1755. Now in case you paid attention earlier, you know that white people did not settle and did not build anything in Australia until 1788. Specially with the Captain Cook connection to Hawaii, we had to investigate what that was all about. Turns out that an Australian business man bought this cottage in the 1930s and had it moved, brick by brick, from England to Australia. If Australia ever leaves the Commonwealth, they might have to pack it up again. The purchase agreement clearly states that this historic building has to stay ‘in the Empire’…

Melbourne also has a very good Immigration Museum. Just like on Ellis Island, I had to remind myself, that we are immigrants, too. Our experience was so much easier than the typical immigration story told in this museum or on Ellis Island. Most of them risked everything for a fresh start. For us it was more something fun to do for a couple of years after college. We just wanted to live abroad for a while to gain more experience and a new perspective. We only wanted to stay for a year or maybe two. We always had the option to move back if we want wanted to. Well, it’s 20 years later and that has not happened yet. My favorite part of the museum were the simulated immigration interviews where you could pick applicants, hear their answers and decide whether you’d let them in or not. Then they tell you whether current or former Australian law would have allowed them in. Unfortunately, it does not look good for workers in the tourism industry, over 45 years old and without an Australian sponsor. 


Next, we drove along the ‘Great Ocean Road’, a very scenic drive along the coast east of Melbourne. In Torquay we visited the ‘World Surfing Museum’ and wondered why Hawaii, as the birthplace of surfing does not have a similar museum. Part of the Great Ocean Road was closed due to the flooding they had a week earlier after very heavy rain. We still got to see most of the highlights - and mostly in sunny conditions.  We had cool, but otherwise very good weather even in the rain forest on the magical “Maits Rest” Trail. Think Hana coast, but with more moss, more mushrooms, more eucalyptus and more fern, which happen to be some of our favorite plants.


A very scenic and very interesting stop was the ‘Otway Lighthouse’. Considered the most important lighthouse in Australia since it made the passage of the early shipping route from Europe a lot safer. Apparently, making it through the roughly 60 mile wide Bass Strait between the Australian mainland and Tasmania was like ‘threading a needle’ to the sailing ships of the days. That’s why this area is know as the ‘Shipwreck Coast’ with an estimated 638 wrecks. We showed up late for the ranger talk at the lighthouse, but not only did he wait even though nobody showed up for the talk on time, we got a personal 20-min talk that lasted over an hour! Such lovely people, even though this one happened to be a British historian who had retired to Australia from Wales. 

Amongst other things, we learnt that the first telegraph connection from Australia to the rest of the world was completed in 1872, cutting the time it took to communicate with the ’home office’ in London by about 98%. The other number that really impressed me was that the mortality rate of the early crossings from Europe to Australia was about 2%. I can not even say whether I was impressed by how low or by how high that ist. Knowing about the many shipwrecks and the terrible sanitary conditions on board you might have guessed it was even higher. But 2% still means a lot of people died along the way. Just imagined every time you take a flight in a jumbo jet with 400 people, an average of 8 people would be carried off dead by the time you land. That could take the fun out of a trip even for us, as much as we enjoy traveling. 


The most scenic part of the Great Ocean Road is the area around the so-called Twelve Apostels. We knew they were rock formations, not actual apostles, we found out that there are also not twelve of them. Erosion has taken its toll, but might create a few new ones soon. It’s kind of like the ’Seven Sacred Pools’ on Maui, which are not seven and not scared. Close by is the hidden little “Tower Hill Preserve”, where we had some of our best wildlife sightings, including emus, wallabies and the cute koala you see on the picture below. Luckily Sandra spotted him, I would have walked right past him, even though he was at eye level three feet next to the trail.


Until we arrived at the ’Grampians National Park’, we had seen almost as many kangaroos dead as alive. This quickly changed. They were all over the place here. There was a ‘mob’ of kangaroos grazing on the local cricket grounds. Yes, that is the technical term for lots of kangaroos together. I bet they never have to mow that lawn. These kangaroos are wild, but surprisingly tame and they don’t shy away from their lawn mowing duties just because a few tourist walk around taking pictures. When a baby kangaroo is peeking out of mama’s pouch, it definitely competes with the koalas for the cutest animal in the world.

The most interesting stop on our drive back to Sydney was in Glenrowan. Their one and only claim to fame is that Ned Kelly was captured here and they milk that for what it’s worth. Now if you don’t know who Ned Kelly is, don’t make the mistake to admit that to an Australian 5th grader as I did. When I told an Australian family that a few hours ago we had no idea who Ned Kelly was, their young son looked at me in disbelief and asked “But isn’t that like the best and biggest story ever?” He gave me a look like I had just told him that I had never heard of Santa Claus. Except that this was even bigger since Ned Kelly was real! He is the Australian folk hero. The most famous outlaw and bushranger ever. They like to compare him to Robin Hood. He took from the rich, but he only gave to himself and his family. So I’d say it’s rather an Australian version of Butch Cassidy than Robin Hood. The story of him is exploited at various museums and exhibitions in this otherwise sleepy town. 


The most famous attraction is called “Ned Kelly’s Last Stand” and tells his story through a series of animated  indoor and outdoor theaters. Think Disney, but not as good. In fact, while seeing it and thinking “This is weirdly entertaining.”, I remembered reading about this very attraction in Bill Bryson’s book. He said that he found it to be so bad that it was actually good. Bill Bryson even considered seeing it again, despite it being overpriced, simply because it was so bad. He ended up not seeing it again for fear it might make some sense the second time around, thus ruining the experience. 

On the way into Sydney, we drove through the somewhat disappointing ‘Royal National Park’. We had a view of the Botany Bay, where the first settlers initially landed following Captain Cooks directions, but did not actually go there. There are reasons why the first settlers quickly moved their camp to where Sydney now stands, mostly the lack of water. We were told this historically important area is now mostly an industrial port with lots of containers and oil tanks. That’s why we did not actually go to Botany Bay, it probably would have been bad, but not bad enough to be good, like Ned Kelly’s Last Stand.

Back in Sydney, we enjoyed our new favorite city some more. We took another ferry ride, this time to Manly Beach. We also saw a Cirque de Soleil show and a Symphony with a choir of 400 singers at the concert hall in the Sydney Opera House. The choir sounded amazing. I am sure the soloists and the musicians were world class, too. But if it had been up to us, we would have made the choir sing the entire time, the rest seemed somewhat lame in comparison. We also found three more dramatic viewpoints. Under the Harbor Bridge on the other side looking back to downtown, on one of the Pylons of the Bridge and 880 feet up on the Sydney Tower. We skipped the Bridge Climb. I’m sure it’s fun, but it costs 15 times as much as the Pylon Lookout and can’t possibly be 15 times better.


We also took more advantage of our museums pass and visited the ‘Elisabeth Bay House’, the ‘finest house in the colony’ at the time and in a way you could argue still today. However, I am not too envious of the man who built it. His own son kicked him out of his own house when he was unable to repay his debts. For a balanced perspective, we also visited “Susannah’s Place”. This is a very modest dwelling in Sydney’s original neighborhood “The Rocks”. One of the few surviving houses from the 1800’s. Even more impressing than the 170 year history of the building, I thought was the fact that people still lived in these houses until 1990. Now, you are not allowed to even touch the walls. For good reason, some of them looked like they could come down pretty easily. Next, we saw the ‘Hyde Park Barracks’, where we got a captivating guided tour in a addition to the very well done audio tour. On the first floor of the Barracks is a great exhibition about the convict history. Did you know that the British also sent about 50,000 convicts to their North American colonies? That obviously came to a stop in 1776, which is probably the reason why they started sending them here in 1788. The second floor shows the various uses of the building throughout its 200 year history. On the third floor were replicas of the actual accommodations for the convicts. The advantage of the hammocks all being replicas: Visitors are welcome to hang out in them, listen to the audio guide, take a nap or imagine life as a convict being sent to the other end of the world.


The next museum on our pass was “The Mint”, Sydney’s oldest remaining building and the first place where they produced money in Australia. This could have been a disappointment, since the museum had closed and it’s now mostly an administrative building. However, we happen to run into the tour guide from ‘The Barracks’ the day before. He recognized us and continued to give us a personal impromptu tour through the building, the offices and the courtyard. This is actually a good example just HOW nice Australians are: After taking time out of his work day, giving us a free private tour, he actually said this: “I am so glad I ran into you!”. As if he did not realize that obviously, WE were the lucky ones, having run into him. And he actually seemed to mean what he said. Such lovely people. 

Another surprising highlight came on our very last night. Having had a great Himalayan dinner two nights before, we were looking for another exotic place for dinner, something we don’t get on Maui. But when we got tired and happen to walk by the noodle shop we had been to the very first night we arrived there weeks earlier, we opted for this safe option. We really liked it before and a warm soup sounded great. Little did we know until we sat down that since we had been there the last time, ownership had changed and it had a completely new menu. We ended up ordering the “Chef’s Fish Special”, since it was half off as a grand opening promotion. No idea what it would be, since the rest of the description was in Chinese (I think). Well, we got our exotic dinner after all. They brought a huge cast iron bowl with a seemingly endless about of the most flavorful fish. The server did not speak enough English to tell us what kind of fish it was, but it reminded me of what we call butter fish. We did not ask about the unknown spices of which there were plenty. It was the best fish I remember eating ever and we could not even finish it. 

The ridiculous long line at the check in counter for the flight home, the fact that we are too spoiled to be blown away by the scenery in the Australian national parks and the beer, which was decent, but not spectacular, were the only aspects about this trip that were not totally amazing. Other than that: Sydney is my new favorite city, Australians are my new favorite people, Footy is my new favorite spectator sport and if if we were to ever get kicked out of America, we know where we will try to move. However, I’d feel terrible to tell our family, since Australia is one of the very few places on this planet that is even further away from Germany than we already are.


But for now, we are not going anywhere, mostly thanks to the airport crew in Honolulu. After three weeks of being amazed how friendly everybody was in Australia, I have to admit I was a little concerned how we would deal without the Australian friendliness. Now picture this: It’s 5:30 early in the morning, we sleepwalk off the plane at the airport in Honolulu after a 9 hour flight and we are greeted not just by one or two but three enthusiastic greetings of “ALOHA” by the airport crew working the gangway ramp and in the terminal. What a nice welcome, even if we always wish to travel longer, it’s good to come home to Hawaii! Then we had our hanai family pick us up, got to hang with our Tuesday night ohana and I got to play and party with my golf and ultimate frisbee buddies already. What lovely people!

And that’s the news from Lake Australia, where all the history is interesting, where all the animals are good looking and everybody is much nicer than average.
Aloha,
Chris & Sandra