Aloha all,
“First in Flight” is the motto on most North Carolina license plates in honor of the Wright Brothers, who were the first humans to fly in Kitty Hawk, NC.
Sounds about right, doesn’t it?
That’s what I would have said until we got there last week. But as so often, history is a little more complicated than what fits on a license plate.
Orville, Chris & Sandra not in Kitty Hawk |
First of all: Humans had been flying since 1783. That's when the first manned hot air ballon took off. Countless humans, including the Wright Brothers, had experimented “flying” somewhat successfully with gliders for years. So what the North Carolina license plates should really say is “First in powered, controlled flight with a heavier-than-air aircraft”.
Also, Orville and Wilbur Wright did not fly in Kitty Hawk, that’s just where they had to go to send a telegram to their dad to let him know of their success. The flights actually took place at “Kill Devil Hill”. To be honest, I think that’s a much more appropriate name for such a dare devil achievement.
Replica of the "Wright Flyer" with a few original parts and Kill Devil Hill in the background |
The very first flight took place on December 17th, 1903. Orville Wright flew 120 feet, which took 12 seconds. That’s less than 7mph, which means he could legally fly around the campground where we are currently staying, where the speed limit is 8mph. But the learning curve of human flights was very steep: On the second try, Wilbur made it to 175 feet. Not to be outdone, on the third flight Orville flew for 200 feet. The fourth and last flight of the day was by Wilbur and was 852 feet long! It lasted 59 seconds, even breaking the campground speed limit. And a mere 66 years later, humans flew 1,261,392,000 feet to the moon!
Captivating Ranger Talk at the lift-off point |
Other than missing the brains and the guts to do anything like this, I can totally relate to the Wright Brothers. I love the story how they flipped a coin to decide who gets to go first and then alternated with each attempt. I can also imagine the two brothers arguing for years who was really the first: Orville claiming to be the first making it airborne while Wilbur reminding his little brother that he flew more than four times as far that day. I know my brother and I could argue about that for years. Well, at least I made it to the site of the first flight before my brother did. I wouldn’t be surprised if the next time my brother is in Paris, he will find the spot where the first hot air ballon took off. And then he will remind me that this was 120 years before the Wright Brothers ever flew.
In 1587 English settlers started a colony on Roanoke Island on the Outer Banks of North Carolina. That’s 33 years before the Pilgrims settled in Plymouth and 20 years before our friends arrived in Jamestown. But don’t worry, this is not going to be another essay about who really founded this country. Nobody claims Roanoke as the origin of America. The only thing Roanoke is known for, is being the “Lost Colony”. Very little remains of the actual settlement. However, the guided tour and the exhibits and the film at the visitor center tell a fascinating, but tragic story:
No human remains and very little physical evidence of the "Lost Colony of Roanoke" was found. |
The colony was struggling from the beginning. One of the few bright spots in the story is that on Aug 18th, 1587, the first baby of European descent was born in America. Why Captain John White, the leader of the colony, had taken his pregnant daughter on this journey is beyond me. He did not get to be with his granddaughter very long. Only one week later, when the ships that brought the settlers to the new world left, the colonists asked John White to return to England to secure more supplies. Well, the oceans in the 16th century were anything but secure. Storms, pirates and wars kept a increasingly desperate White from returning to Roanoke for the next three years. By the time he returned, all the settlers, including his daughter and granddaughter, had vanished. Unfortunately, the captain of the ship White came with refused to investigate any further.
To this day, no evidence has been found, not even any good clues, what might have happened to them. They might have died from disease or starvation, there might have been a natural disaster or Indian attack. The most optimistic theory is that some of them might have been adopted by native tribes since later explorers reported some fair skinned and even red haired natives.
This stone marks the birthplace of Virginia Dare, the first baby of European descent born in America |
Roanoke is also home to another bitter sweet history: During the Civil War, it became the first “Freedmen’s Colony”. Starting with the Union’s takeover of Roanoke Island in 1862, it became a safe haven for fleeing slaves from the South. Many of them joined the Union troops as soon as that was allowed. Ironically, the Union’s victory they helped to achieve was also the reason the Freedmen’s Colony was dissolved. After the war all confiscated land was given back to the original owners, including this part of Roanoke, where thousands of African Americans had established their first homes as free people.
Up to this point, what we had seen of the Outer Banks had been pretty developed and pretty close to the mainland. That started to change on Pea Island. From here on out, we saw more birds than humans and most of the humans we did see were fishing. The islands get increasingly narrow, sometimes we could see the water on both sides of the road. What we couldn’t see anymore was the mainland. The Outer Banks are up to 30 miles 'out there'. Looking at it on a map, it seems crazy to drive, let alone live on such a narrow strip of land way out in the ocean. I know, Hawaii is also just a tiny speck of land and even more isolated, but at least it’s not just made of shifting sand.
After seeing some of the beaches here, I feel we need to rename Big Beach on Maui |
We spent two days at the Cape Point Campground on Hatteras Island and were fascinated by the history of the Hatteras Lighthouse: It’s not mentioned in the musical, but according to the national park ranger, Alexander Hamilton was instrumental in getting Congress to fund a lighthouse there in 1794…after he almost shipwrecked there himself. The original lighthouse was replaced by the current tower in 1870. At almost 200 feet in height it was and still is the tallest brick lighthouse in America. Well aware of erosion, they built it over 1500 feet inland from the beach. But only 50 years later, the beach was only 300 feet away. Groins were built, which slowed the speed of erosion. But in 1997, the National Park Service made the controversial decision that the lighthouse had to be moved to be saved.
Hatteras Lighthouse: The tallest (and fastest) brick lighthouse |
We have been to many historical homes that have been moved. Seems to be easier than I thought. But most brick buildings were moved brick by brick and therefore are rather ‘rebuilt’ than actually ‘moved’. Not the Hatteras Lighthouse! In 1999, they moved the whole thing by over half a mile, all 147,000+ bricks and all at once! We listened to the ranger talk about the move and watched a documentary on YouTube, aptly called “The Move of the Century”. It musty have been quite the spectacle with tens of thousands of people coming to the Outer Banks to see the lighthouse move. To show his confidence that this could be done safely, the park superintendent rode on top of the lighthouse the first day. Everything went well and they even seem to have had some fun with it: They put up signs cautioning drivers of “Crossing Lighthouses”. They even put up a stop sign for the lighthouse inches before the final destination. When the lighthouse moved past the stop sign by a few inches per minute, they issued a ticket for running the stop sign and for “exceeding the safe speed for a lighthouse”. Do you know what the Hatteras Lighthouse and my mom have in common? A few inches per minute is also the speed that my mom claimed to drive when she once got a ticket for not stopping at a stop sign. And I believe her, because my mom is the most careful driver and the most honest person in the world.
Beware of crossing lighthouses! |
I had no idea you could move a lighthouse that size, but that was not the only thing we learned in the museum next to the Hatteras Lighthouse and later at the “Graveyard of the Atlantic” Museum. We also had no idea that German U-Boats attacked American ships just off the coast in North Carolina during both world wars! I didn’t even think that over 100 years ago submarines existed that could cross the Atlantic. During World War II, the U-Boats did serious damage. Apparently the government kept the attacks so close to American shores secret in order to avoid panic. The secrecy worked very well, it took over 80 years for us to find out!
Random picture of the shells at Cape Point Beach |
Not so random picture of shells at Cape Point Beach |
We went for a beach walk to Cape Point on Hatteras Island, where the Gulf Stream and the Labrador Current meet. I have never seen so many pretty sea shells on one beach in my life. Apparently the fishing is really good at the point, too. Despite miles and miles of wide and basically empty beaches on either side, the tip of the island is as crowded as Waikiki. Just more trucks and less bikinis, at least this time of the year. We might have been the only people not fishing on Hatteras Island, but we were not the only ones not catching any fish. Our new friends from Ohio did not catch anything either. But they did not seem to mind, because they still had enough beer to share with strangers on the beach and enjoy one of the most memorable sunsets we have ever seen:
Who cares about catching fish anyway? |
Amazing sunset even by Maui standards |
From Hatteras Island to Ocracoke Island, Joy got to take another ferry ride, this one was even free! Ocracoke is a cute town, but by that time the weather wasn’t that cute anymore, so the next day, we took another ferry back to the mainland.
We spent a day at the very impressive Fort Macon. It was planned after the War of 1812 to protect America from the British. As we now know, the British never attacked the US again. But America attacked America. The only time Fort Macon saw any action was during the Civil War. The Confederacy took it without a fight in 1861, only to give it up in 1862 after a siege and one day of bombardment by the Union.
Fort Macon by Morehead City |
The fort was used again briefly during the Spanish American War. After that, it was neglected. In the 1930’s the good old CCC boys helped restore it to become North Carolina’s first functioning State Park. Army troops were stationed at Fort Macon once more during World War II, because of them German U-Boats off the coast, but it was never actually needed. To top off our day, we met for dinner with another Maui expat friend who moved back to Morehead City, NC.
Dinner with Terry & Jen |
Of course we had to go to New Bern, if only for the name. New Bern was the first capital of the North Carolina colony. Apparently, they saw how successful Williamsburg was in reviving their colonial capital, so they decided to do the same thing, albeit on a much smaller scale. But we enjoyed the tour of the reconstructed “Tryon Palace”, which was the governor’s family’s mansion and the seat of the colonial government.
"Tryon Palace" in New Bern, NC |
Tour of the colonial capitol |
The royal governors did not last very long in Tryon Palace. The last royal governor fled during the early rumblings of the revolution in 1775, over a year before the Declaration of Independence. That’s why in New Bern, they claim to be the first ones to actually achieve independence. We also enjoyed the beautiful gardens around the palace and the North Carolina History Center.
One of the Gardens at Tryon Palace |
The other claim to fame of New Bern is that it’s the birthplace of Pepsi. We walked past the soda shop where Pepsi was first mixed in 1898. That’s 12 years after the first coke was served in Atlanta, but I still find it amazing how long these sugary waters have been around. I wonder whether the Wright Brothers preferred Pepsi or Coke.
The very first Pepsi was served here |
But even with all that, New Bern does not offer quite as much as Williamsburg, so we were able to see everything we wanted to see and still had time for one last ocean front dinner …until we are back on Maui.
The Last Sunset Supper |
Now we have found a place to store Joy and will fly from Raleigh with a quick detour via Chicago back to Maui. We’ll be home by November 6th. Our last fun site of this road trip was the Vollis Simpson Whirligig Park in Wilson, NC. We didn't know who Vollis Simpson was or what a whirligig is, but you can't help but smile when you see them whirling in the wind.
Whirligig Park in Wilson, NC |
Even Joy enjoys Whirligigs |
Now we are preparing Joy for her winter hibernation. To prepare ourselves for our return home, we practiced our golf and pickle ball skills.
Lane Tree Golf Course in Goldsboro, at only $14 for 9 holes with a cart it's the best deal outside of Waiehu |
I want to congratulate you for making it to the end of the last blog post of this year's road trip. We truly are looking forward to coming home to Maui. But if we were to get itchy feet again next spring, you can read all about it right here.
A hui hou, Joy!
Chris & Sandra